London, Soho, Wardour Street – Princi – pizzeria, patisserie, bakery.
Princi (pronounced Prrinchi – slightly roll the ‘r’ – go easy on the ‘h’) is staffed by efficiently attentive delicate young men and women, flitting from task to task while lyrically repeating your order; as if possessed of the bones and songs of birds.
Princi is all straight lines; copper-sheathed high benches run north to south, a black mountain-side of marble runs east to west carrying a counter of glass showcases, while tucked into the wall behind are wooden cubicles for loaves. On the opposite wall, running the length of the building is a canal of running water, fed at intervals by constantly flowing taps.
Princi does the finest things with flour. With staff capped and uniformed in white and an elegant yet minimal architecture, Princi is a wonderful restorative on their quieter mornings and evenings; order at the counter, coffee at the rear. During mid-morning and afternoons when busy, claim a picnic stash and head up Wardour to St Anne’s Church to lunch in the courtyard.